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This casual little cafe serves some of the best food around, and unlike many other Wine Country restaurants, it makes no attempt to pretend it s in the Mediterranean Plain tables and chairs are carefully set about, as if not to disturb the art that fills the walls, making La Haye s single room resemble a gallery The menu selection, spare but complete, features whatever s seasonal and offers organic produce The daily risotto is fabulous, but you truly can t go wrong no matter what you order See map p 147 140 E Napa St % 707-935-5994 wwwsterbacom/sonoma/ lahaye Reservations advised Main courses: $16 $29 AE, MC, V Open: Tues Sat 5:30 9 pm

With so many valley restaurants and chefs vying for attention, Deuce, a popular stop for county residents, gets overlooked by travelers Inside the yellow Craftsman-style house, which sits on the main road heading toward Sonoma Plaza, you ll be treated to especially friendly service and wellprepared food that doesn t require any translation Lots of diners (especially those who want dessert) make do with a couple of starters, in particular the tender/crispy calamari or the irresistible lobster pot pie For mains, the smart money is on the thick, perfectly grilled pork chop although the cassoulet is hard to pass up Kids are welcome here and the kitchen will prepare something to their liking if you ask See map p 147 691 Broadway % 707-933-3823 wwwdine-at-deucecom Reservations recommended Main courses: $19 $25 AE, MC, V Open: Daily 11:30 am 2:30 pm and 5 9 pm

This upscale Country French bistro moved to the Sonoma Hotel from its Glen Ellen location in 2001 and, to the delight of its many admirers, added outdoor dining The seasonal menu meets the needs of seafoodies, vegetarians, and carnivores alike with one or two dishes in each category The grilled fig salad with arugula and local goat s cheese is a must-order when fresh figs are available See map p 147 110 West Spain St % 707-938-3634 wwwthegirlandthefig com Reservations accepted Main courses: $12 $25 MC, V Open: Daily 11:30 am 10 pm

You can t miss this new restaurant and hotel on Sonoma s square, although the designers did such a great job blending the new building with the old architecture that it looks like it s always been here Ledson s hotel dining room sensibility seems at odds with the casual Wine Country atmosphere everywhere else servers line up by the kitchen door and the plates of admittedly tasty food can be self-conscious in their presentation But with a pianist nightly and a jazz vocalist on weekends, Ledson s has definitely enlivened the town See map p 147 480 First St % 707-996-9779 wwwledsonhotelcom Reservations recommended Main courses: $23 $30 AE, MC, V Open: Daily 11:30 am 10 pm

Napa Valley is home to more than 380 wineries (Sonoma has over 200), some owned by corporations, and others the domain of individuals so

seduced by the grape that they abandoned successful careers to devote themselves to viticulture Although no correlation exists between the size of a winery and the quality of the product which has more to do with the talents of the vintners and variables such as weather and soil conditions the bigger wineries offer more to visitors in terms of education and entertainment Wineries in Napa (less so in Sonoma) are developing new ways to market wine tasting as an educational/culinary event and an expensive one at that In what we think is an effort to eradicate the notion that this is a great way to cage free alcohol, most wineries charge at least a nominal tasting fee and many are promoting sit-down food and wine pairings for real money Rubicon Estate (formerly Niebaum-Coppola) is a case in point: You can t even drive onto the property without paying $25 at the gate per adult, just so they know you really, really want to be there (the fee covers a tour and five tastes) Wine tasting has become serious business in these parts If you want to find out more about grape growing and the blending and bottling process, make the first winery you visit one that offers an indepth tour Robert Mondavi offers an excellent introductory tour, as does St Sup ry Book the superb tour offered by Schramsberg if you re interested in the production of sparkling wine (aka champagne, although only French winemakers from the Champagne region fundamentally have the right to call it that) Don t expect a deal on wine purchased directly from the producers Wineries sell at full retail so as not to undercut their primary market, wine merchants Buy and carry only what you think you can t get at home If you re concerned that you won t be able to locate a particular vintage back at the ranch, most wineries offer mail-order service