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Napa Valley is compact and easy to explore The town of Napa at the south end is just 26 miles from Calistoga at the north end Take a look at the Napa Valley map on p 145, and you find that the valley resembles a ladder, with two main roads running (roughly) north-south Highway 29, the main drag, along the west side and the Silverado Trail along the east side with east-west cross streets at regular intervals, every halfmile or so The valley is more commercial and developed at the south end, growing increasingly bucolic and spread out as you move north The town of Napa is the commercial center of the Wine Country and the gateway to Napa Valley This is where the real people live hence the fast-food joints and strip malls Stop by the visitor center (see the Gathering More Information section at the end of this chapter) to pick up a winery map, but don t be in a big hurry to leave there s lots going on in town, including Copia, the new temple to food, wine, and the arts Just north of Napa is Yountville Both St Helena and Calistoga boast more old-fashioned charm, but Yountville wins in the convenience department Exciting restaurants abound, and you can t be more centrally located Immediately north of Yountville is Oakville, then Rutherford, two blinkand-you ll-miss-them towns that really just qualify as map markers Next is St Helena, about 18 miles north of Napa, an attractive little town with upscale shops tucked away in beautifully restored wooden storefronts Around St Helena, the terrain starts to open up and look like the agricultural landscape it is In another 8 miles, you reach Calistoga, California s version of Saratoga Springs, the east coast s favorite spa town (the name
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12: Napa and Sonoma Valleys
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BOTHE-NAPA VALLEY To Petrified STATE PARK Forest Bale Gristmill State Historic Park
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ACCOMMODATIONS Best Western Stevenson Manor Inn 26 The Daughter s Inn 3 Harvest Inn 17 Indian Springs 24 Milliken Creek 7 Mount View Hotel 27 Napa River Inn 2 Vintage Inn 10 DINING Ang le 2 Bistro Don Giovanni 9 Bistro Jeanty 10 Bounty Hunter 5 Cindy s Bacstreet Kitchen 18 Dean & DeLuca 20 French Laundry 10 Gordon s Cafe and Wine Bar 10 Julia s Kitchen 4 Martini House 19 Oakville Grocery Co 12 Pearl 6 V Sattui Winery 16 Wappo Bar & Bistro 27 BALLOONING, SPAS, ETC Adventures Aloft 11 Calistoga Spa Hot Springs 25 Copia 4 di Rosa Preserve 1 Dr Wilkinson s Hot Springs 27 Golden Haven Hot Springs Spa 25 Indian Springs 24 Old Faithful Geyser of California 28
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146 Part III: Northern California: Redwoods, Wind, and Wonder
Calistoga is a cross of the two: California and Saratoga) This wellpreserved, extremely charming gold-rush town boasts the natural hot springs that make the Wine Country a first-class spa destination, too It s our favorite place to stay, although you spend a bit more time in the car if you base yourself here Because the driving is so gorgeous, it s easily worthwhile but be aware of the distance, especially if your time is limited Be very careful while driving always-busy Highway 29 Even if you re a teetotaler, remember that virtually everybody else has imbibed a bit This two-lane road is the scene of many accidents, especially at night Sonoma Valley is smaller and even more rural than Napa Valley, which guarantees that you can see it all in two days (see the Sonoma Valley map on p 147) It includes the towns of Sonoma, Glen Ellen, Kenwood, Santa Rosa, and Healdsburg; two state parks; a few resorts, hotels, and B&Bs scattered among the country roads; and some fine restaurants