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Spending an evening in the pubs and clubs of Temple Bar: The eclectic, hopping Temple Bar area is a favorite with many visitors This area, a few streets along the Liffey, is packed with pubs, shops, bars, cafes, galleries, theaters, and outdoor markets The neighborhood has its own tourist office at 27 Eustace St (% 01-677-2397; wwwvisit-templebarcom) In summer, ask at the tourist office about Diversions Temple Bar, an arts and culture program that includes movie screenings, dance performances, and Irish music and storytelling sessions Events are free of charge, but tickets (available at the Temple Bar tourist office) are required Strolling about is the best way to visit Temple Bar Proper pubhopping here includes Flannery s, 48 Temple Bar (% 01-478-2238); Farringtons, East Essex Street (% 01-671-5135); and Oliver St John Gogarty, 58 59 Fleet St (% 01-671-1822), and its cattycornered neighbor Auld Dubliner, Temple Bar and Anglesea
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12: Dublin and the Best of Ireland
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streets (% 01-677-0527) Lillie s Bordello, Adam Court off Grafton Street (% 01-679-9204), is still one of the hottest Dublin clubs after ten years, with a lipstick-red interior and the members-only (you can pay to be a member) Library room Renards, 35 37 S Frederick St (% 01-677-5876), pulls in celebrities and locals alike, with three floors of bars, dancing, and frequent live jazz Ri-R , 1 Exchequer St (% 01-671-1220), fills up every night with dancers getting down to funk, jazz, and other grooves No need to pub-hop just in Temple Bar, though Make sure you also hit Dublin s oldest and greatest pub, the Brazen Head, west of Temple Bar at 20 Lower Bridge St (% 01-679-5186), as well as the Victorian Doheny and Nesbitt, 5 Lower Baggot St (% 01-676-2945), the literary Davy Byrnes, 21 Duke St (% 01-677-5217), and two musical bars, The Cobblestone, 77 North King St (% 01-872-1799), and O Donoghues, 15 Merrion Row (% 01-676-2087) Officially, Dublin s pubs are generally open from 10:30 am to 11:30 pm (until 12:30 am Fri Sat) Some pubs are licensed to stay open later on weekends Tapping your feet on a musical pub crawl: The Musical Pub Crawl (% 01-475-3313; wwwdiscoverdublinie) is a fabulous experience for anyone even remotely interested in Irish music Two excellent musicians guide you from pub to pub, regaling you with Irish tunes and songs; cracking many a joke; and filling you in on the instruments used in Irish music, the history of the music, and the various types of tunes and songs The nightly tour begins in the upstairs room at Oliver St John Gogarty s pub at the corner of Fleet and Anglesea streets in Temple Bar Show up at 7:30 pm nightly April through October, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights in February, March, and November Researching your Irish roots: Forty million Americans have some Irish in them Hundreds of Americans come to Ireland every year to seek out their ancestors here, and the Irish are much obliged to help (sometimes for a modest fee) First, the freebie services The National Library (% 01-603-0200; wwwnliie) and the National Archives (% 01-407-2300, or for Northern Ireland, % 020-8876-3444; www nationalarchivesie, or for Northern Ireland, wwwnational archivesgovuk) are great places to start your search The Office of the Registrar General in County Roscommon (% 01-663-2900; wwwgroirelandie) retains all the records on births, deaths, and marriages in the Republic of Ireland The Web sites of commercial (for-a-fee) ancestor-research firms Irish Genealogy (wwwirish genealogyie) and Irish Roots (wwwirishrootsnet) both have good links lists to lots of local resources Discovering literary and theatrical Dublin: If the Dublin Writers Museum (see Dublin s top sights earlier in this chapter) isn t enough, immerse yourself in literary Dublin by checking out the definitive James Joyce Centre, 35 N Great George s St (% 01878-8547; wwwjamesjoyceie), and the Abbey Theatre, 26 Lower Abbey St (% 01-878-7222; wwwabbeytheatreie)
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