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21: Venice and Environs in .NET
21: Venice and Environs
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square is the tiny Museo dell Estuario (% 041-730-761), whose collection includes archaeological fragments and the remains of some ten other churches that once stood on Torcello Admission is 2 ($230); it s open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 am to 12:30 pm and 2 to 4 pm
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Where to dine
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For lunch, consider picking up supplies in Venice (Torcello is great for a relaxed picnic) or sitting down for a hearty meal at Trattoria Al Corallo (% 041-739-636; ristorantiombranet/corallo), Fondamenta dei Vetrai 73 in Murano, or Trattoria da Romano (% 041-730-030; www daromanoit), at Via Baldassare Galuppi 223 in Burano Or pull out all the stops and splurge on Locanda Cipriani (% 041-730-150; www locandaciprianicom), a refined restaurant in the middle of nowhere on Torcello that was one of Hemingway s favorite dining spots
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Padova: Outstanding art and architecture
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For the best daytrip (in my opinion) in the Veneto region, make tracks for Padova (Padua) a city of saints and scholars, Giotto frescoes, and arcaded piazze Right on your way to Bologna, Florence, and Rome via rail, Padova makes a great stop en route to or from Venice Allow four to five hours (and some hustling) to see the sites, or stay the night and take in the city at a more leisurely pace
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Padova is only 32 minutes by half-hourly train from Venice (For this reason, many savvy travelers choose to stay in Padova during peak tourist season and day-trip to crowded, expensive Venice) The tourist office (% 049-875-2077; wwwpadovanetit) is at the train station
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Seeing the sights
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The must-see site for Padova is on the northernmost edge of town (take bus 3 or 8, 10, or 12 at the Piazza Eremitani off Corso Garibaldi) the Cappella degli Scrovegni (Arena Chapel) (% 049-201-0020; www cappelladegliscrovegniit), which Giotto, a master of emotion and artistic technique, adorned with gorgeous frescoes from 1303 to 1306 The chapel as a whole is breathtaking, depicting scenes from the life of Mary and Jesus in 38 panels including the awe-inspiring Last Judgment, the insightful Arrest of Christ, and the woe-filled Lamentation of Christ Advance reservation is required; the admission prices listed here include the 1 ($115) reservation fee Admission (available at the Musei Civici di Eremitani) is 12 ($14 adults), 1 ($115) children under 6 and seniors over 65 It s open daily from 9 am to 7 pm (in summer it may stay open until 10 pm) You must collect your tickets at the box office one hour prior to your admission
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478 Part V: Mediterranean Europe
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The nearby Musei Civici di Eremitani, Piazza Eremitani 8 (% 049-8204550), houses an archaeological collection on the ground floor, a Giotto Crucifix, and minor works by major 14th-century Venetian painters (including Giorgione, Jacopo Bellini, Veronese, and Tintoretto) Admission is combined with the Cappella degli Scrovegni (unless you choose to see the museum alone for 10 /$12) and the hours are February to October daily 9 am to 7 pm and November to January 9 am to 6 pm Padova s other great sight is the eastern-looking Basilica di Sant Antonio, Piazza del Santo 11 (% 049-878-9722) Outside, the basilica is all domes and mini-minarets, while altars inside feature Donatello bronzes Be sure to see the north transept for the tomb of St Anthony and the south transept for a 14th-century fresco of the Crucifixion A beautiful bronze sculpture of a man on horseback called Gattamelata, also by Donatello, dominates the church s piazza Admission is free, and the basilica is open daily from 6:20 am to 7:45 pm in summer (until 7 pm in winter)
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Where to stay
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If you re looking for value in Paduan hotels, check out the bright, modernized rooms of family-run Hotel al Fagiano, Via Locatelli 45 (west of Piazza del Santo; % 049-875-0073; wwwalfagianoit) Doubles with a bathroom cost 75 to 81 ($86 $93)
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