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Les Agaves in VS .NET
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$ $$$ Beaulieu PROVEN AL
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Les Agaves, in the 1900 Palais des Anglais, is the best restaurant in town if you don t want to break the bank at La R serve Chef/owner Jacky Lelu s specialties are homemade ravioli and grilled dishes; his ultimate ravioli dish is served with c pes (white flap mushrooms) and truffles The restaurant also offers an excellent coquilles St-Jacques, the classic scallop dish, and filet de rascasse la cr me de truffe (scorpion-fish with truffle sauce) English is spoken 4 av Mar chal-Foch % 04-93-01-13-12 wwwlesagavescom Reservations recommended Main courses: 27 40 ($35 $52); prix fixe: 35 ($46) AE, DC, MC, V Open: Daily 7:30 10 pm Closed Dec 1 15
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Exploring the villa and beaches
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Th odore Reinach (1860 1928) created his dream house at the tip of a rocky promontory jutting into the sea and named it the Villa K rylos (rue Gustave-Eiffel; % 04-93-01-01-44; wwwvilla-keryloscom) An archaeologist, man of letters, and scholar of ancient Greece, Reinach wanted his home to replicate a Greek villa from the 2nd century BC So the house, built from 1902 to 1908, is a completely unique mingling of early-1900s techniques with ancient Greek sensibility; it s a fun and fascinating combination Reinach wanted to eat, sleep, and party like the Greeks, so his dining room chairs are vertical chaise longues for reclining next to three-legged tables His bed is framed by fluted columns, and his marble bathtub can fit ten men The villa has mosaics, frescoes, and reproductions of artworks from Pompeii and ancient Greece A gallery of antiquities is in the stone basement, which is surrounded by windows
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434 Part VI: Provence and the Riviera
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level with the sea You can watch windsurfers while admiring copies of famous statues such as the Venus de Milo and the Discus Thrower After touring the house, stroll through the garden, and have a bite to eat at the cafe From February 11 to November 3, the villa is open daily 10 am to 6 pm; July and August, hours are daily 10 am to 7 pm; November 4 to January 1, hours are Monday to Friday 2 to 6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 6 pm Admission is 8 ($10) for adults and 6 ($780) for students and children ages 7 through 18 The two beaches with concessions are Plage Petite Afrique off Promenade Pasteur (no phone) and La Calanque at Baie des Fourmis (% 04-93-01-45-00) These are attractive, if crowded, beaches Plage Petite Afrique, the easternmost, is a crescent-shaped beach dotted with palm trees and lush vegetation
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Living it up after dark
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At the Art Deco-style Grand Casino de Beaulieu (4 av Fernand-Dunan; % 04-93-76-48-00), jackets are encouraged for men in the game rooms, and tennis shoes are forbidden, though dress is more casual in the slot machine section Admission is free for either area, but you will need to show a passport for entrance to the game rooms
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436 Part VI: Provence and the Riviera
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notorious) stretch of sand on the Riviera After a day on the beach, it s time to gear up for a memorable dinner and a taste of St-Tropez after dark The crowd is young and starts out late: Dinner is at 10 pm, and bar hopping begins shortly thereafter If you aren t into the bar scene, you may enjoy strolling along the old port or people-watching from one of the portside cafes
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St-Tropez is difficult to get to without a car (no trains stop there) or even with a car Plan on at least a half-day of travel to reach the resort Summer traffic onto the peninsula can be bumper-to-bumper for miles The closest major bus-and-train hub is St-Rapha l, 38km (24 miles) east of St-Tropez Bus fares from Cannes to St-Rapha l require a change at the agrarian hamlet of Le Trayas, take about 70 minutes of travel time, and cost 680 ($885) each way Continuing on by bus from St-Rapha l to St-Tropez costs an additional 3 ($390) For information and schedules, call either Rapha l Bus at % 04-94-83-87-63 or Soci t beltrame at % 04-94-95-95-16 St-Rapha l is on the main coastal train line for the Riviera A train from Nice to St-Rapha l takes between 50 and 75 minutes and costs 10 to 12 ($13 $16); trains from Cannes to St-Rapha l take 22 minutes and cost 6 to 8 ($780 $10) Other nearby train stations are at Toulon (60km/37 miles) and Marseille (134km/83 miles) For train information, call % 08-92-35-35-39 or 3635 within France Transports Maritimes Rapha lois (% 04-94-95-17-46) runs a shuttle boat service between St-Rapha l and St-Tropez Boats run daily (July and Aug), taking one hour and costing 12 ($16) one-way From April to June and in September and October, only two shuttle boats travel between St-Rapha l and St-Tropez each week St-Tropez is about 20 minutes by boat from St-Maxime (14km/9 miles east of St-Tropez), and two companies make shuttle boat trips between them daily (in season): Transports Maritimes (% 04-94-55-09-92), running from April to November 4, and Les Bateaux Verts, which run year-round (% 04-9449-29-39) Both charge 12 ($15) for adults and 630 ($820) for children ages 4 to 12 The major airports (and distances) nearest St-Tropez are the A roport Toulon-Hy res (56km/35 miles), A roport International de Nice C te d Azur (91km/57 miles), A roport International de Marseille-Provence (115km/72 miles), and Aeroport St-Tropez-La M le (15km/9 miles) La M le, located to the northwest of St-Tropez is a relatively new landing strip, suitable only for small planes whose arrival and departure rituals may remind you of equivalent small-plane puddle jumps throughout the Caribbean The airports have offices for all major car-rental agencies A taxi from the Nice airport to St-Tropez costs a whopping average of 180 to 225 ($234 $293) each way for up to four passengers The distance from the other airports to St-Tropez makes a rental car your best option
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