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Herbicides: The big guns in .NET framework
Herbicides: The big guns
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Unless poison ivy or another untouchable plant has invaded, you shouldn t need to resort to herbicides to control weeds in an established garden There s no excuse to use a synthetic herbicide for ridding your garden of dandelions or even an unruly crop of pigweed control these by hoeing, pulling, or mulching Even if you re clearing out a new bed, herbicides should be a last resort Refer to 7 for more on herbicides If you do use herbicides, apply them selectively spray individual weeds, not the whole garden
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Mulch: The Great Cover-Up
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Mulching is the process of covering bare soil in your garden with either organic matter like compost or an inorganic material like marble chips Mulching often makes a garden more attractive, and it does mulch, mulch more
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9: Everyday Care and Feeding
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Let us list the ways: Moderates soil temperature, keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter In winter, reduces heaving (plants uprooting because of alternating freezing and thawing of the soil) by keeping the soil at a more constant temperature Conserves moisture in the soil Covers the soil and prevents mud from splashing up onto foliage when it rains or when you water; this not only makes plants look nicer and gives you a cleaner harvest, but also helps prevent soil-borne diseases from spreading Suppresses weeds Reduces soil erosion from wind and water Reduces soil compaction from pounding rains And if your mulch is an organic one, such as compost, it also Adds nutrients to the soil Feeds soil organisms Improves soil structure Mulch saves time and labor your time and labor As one busy Vermont friend always says when he shows off his lush gardens, Brought to you by the miracle of mulch You get better results from mulching if you follow these steps: 1 Remove all weeds or as many as you can 2 Loosen the top inch or two of soil with a hoe or rake 3 Water thoroughly (until the top 3 inches of soil are moist) 4 Apply the mulch The depth of your mulch depends on the time of year, your location, your soil, your herbs, and which mulch you re using Usually, a layer of 3 to 4 inches is adequate to suppress weeds
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Here are some tips and techniques we ve gleaned from our many years of mulching:
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Part III: Getting Down to Earth
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If you re growing annual herbs in a vegetable garden or separate bed, use an organic mulch, such as straw, in spring Over the summer, the mulch will begin to decompose Dig the mulch into the soil in autumn and then cover the bed with a winter mulch more straw, or shredded leaves to protect the soil In perennial beds and borders, keep mulch an inch or two away from plant stems to discourage stem rot In shady, moist spots apply organic mulches in a thin layer to prevent soil from staying too wet Wet soil attracts slugs and snails In spring, especially in cold regions, wait until the soil warms before you mulch; in hot, arid climates, mulch as soon as you plant Don t mulch seedbeds until your herbs germinate, however, and be careful not to smother small plants Most mulches work well in any garden, so the materials you choose may depend most on what is available where you live, how you want your garden to look, and your pocketbook For example, straw is valuable in a vegetable or cutting garden but may not give you the look you want in your ornamental border There, shredded bark may be a better choice You can use a few layers of newsprint or cardboard underneath mulch to increase its effectiveness This technique is best saved for paths and areas between rows, because the paper or cardboard can form an impenetrable layer that keeps water from reaching plant roots or prevents soil moisture from evaporating, causing rot Any mulch is better than no mulch To borrow a slogan from the athletic shoe company, Just do it!
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