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$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL
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Located on Hauptstrasse, the main street in the Altstadt, this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz The food is generally good but not outstanding Stick with the seasonal offerings like venison or goose, or try the house specialty, rack of lamb Portions are hearty and very filling and service is friendly and efficient An English-language menu is available See map p 339 Hauptstrasse 115 % 06221/20879 Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse) Main courses: 8 23 ($11 $31) AE, DC, MC, V Open: Daily 11 am 1 am
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Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore, and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions The town has few must-see sights, and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt
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Visiting the top attraction
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Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot, or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see Getting around Heidelberg earlier in this chapter) Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside The easiest and most gradual path begins at the
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346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
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Klingentor; you also find a shorter, steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens, the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque Even in its deteriorated state, it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany, and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe Plan to spend about two hours here Entering at the main gate, you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth s Gate), erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV), erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours The palace s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley At the west end of the terrace, in the 16th-century cellars of the castle, sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask) This enormous wine barrel, the largest in the world, was built in 1751 and once held more than 208,000 liters (55,000 gallons) of wine To the east, connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich), is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors), constructed in 1549 Housed within Ottheinrich s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum; % 06221/25880), re-creating a baroque- and rococo-era chemist s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries The museum is open daily from 10 am to 5 pm; your castle entrance ticket includes admission The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) were laid out in the 17th century In the southeast corner, you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine See map p 339 Schlossberg % 06221/872-7000 Admission: Castle grounds, free; entrance courtyard, Pharmacy Museum, and Great Cask, 3 ($405) adults, 150 ($2) children; 1-hour guided tours in English, 4 ($540) adults, 2 ($270) children; audio tours 4 ($540) Open: Daily 8 am 5:30 pm
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The history of Heidelberg Castle
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An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225, but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases During the first phase, between about 1400 and 1544, fortifications and living quarters were constructed The second phase, from 1549 to 1620, saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century After it was rebuilt, the castle was struck by lightning In the 19th century, the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world
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