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Upstairs in the trendy Establishment Hotel you ll find est, a restaurant that culinary luminary Peter Doyle has melded into a Sydney icon The d cor is a sensual masterpiece, with white columns and rich felt-brown carpets adding to an ambience already sexed up by cool lounge music Dishes on the menu include grilled rock lobster with herbs and lemon butter, and juniper-crusted saddle of venison, with beetroot pur e, potato, and semolina gnocchi It s more laid-back on the top floor, where you ll find the city s best sushi bar a trendy place with one long table bathed in natural light called Sushi E This is partitioned off from Hemisphere a moody drinking place with leather armchairs and comfy sofas See map p 132 Level 1, 252 George St, Sydney % 02/9240 3010 wwwmerivale com Reservations essential Main courses: A$43 A$57 (US$34 US$46/ 17 23) AE, DC, MC, V Open: Mon Fri noon to 3 pm, Mon Sat 6 10 pm

This midsize eatery a ten-minute stroll up the main hill leading from The Rocks, serves delicious food with a focus on fresh seafood There are a few tables outside, and plenty inside below the photographs of sailing boats The staff is friendly and the service professional Portions are not huge, so don t expect to fill up on a single main course if you re starving The dishes are well crafted, though Favorites here are the Queensland scallops on polenta and braised peas, and the whiting filets in a beer-batter Don t pass on the chocolate mud cake, either it s stunning See map p 132 29 Kent St, The Rocks % 02/9252 4614 wwwfishattherocks comau Reservations recommended Main courses: A$24 A$29 (US$19 US$23/ 950 12) AE, MC, V Open: Daily noon to 2:30 pm and 6 10:30 pm

Powerful people, celebrities, and Sydneysiders out for a celebration all come here to feel exclusive The 41st-floor views over the city and the harbor are terrific, the service is fun, the cutlery is the world s best, and Swiss chef and owner Dietmar Sawyere has given the food a wickedly good Asian slant In all, it s a glamorous place to experience some of the best of Australian cuisine The signature dish is roast wild hare, with celeriac and potato pur e, Viennese carrots, and chartreuse jus See map p 132 Level 42, Chifley Tower, 2 Chifley Sq % 02/9221 2500 wwwfortyonecomau Reservations required Main courses: 3-course menu A$125 (US$100/ 50), 3-course menu with matched wine A$140 (US$112/ 56), 6 courses with wine A$200 (US$160/ 80) AE, DC, MC, V Open: Tues Fri noon to 4 pm, Mon Sat 6 10 pm

According to the manager, half the tourists who visit Sydney eat at this little place in the heart of The Rocks It offers simple, satisfying food at around half the price you d expect to pay in a tourist precinct The interior is uninspiring, but in back there s a leafy courtyard Among the offerings are focaccia sandwiches, soups, salads, burgers, lasagna, chili, and curry See map p 132 83 George St, The Rocks % 02/9241 3644 Main courses: A$3 A$7 (US$240 US$560/ 120 280) AE Open: Sun Thurs 5 am to midnight, Fri Sat 5 am to 3 am

When I think of Govindas, I can t help smiling Perhaps it s because I m recalling the happy vibe from the Hare Krishna center it s based in, or maybe it s because the food is so cheap! Or maybe it s because the restaurant even

throws in a decent movie with the meal (The movie theater is on a different floor) The food is simple vegetarian, served buffet-style and eaten in a basic room off black-lacquer tables Typical dishes include pastas and salads, lentil dishes, soups, and casseroles It s BYO and doctrine-free See map p 132 112 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst % 02/9380 5155 wwwgovindas comau Main courses: Dinner A$16 (US$13/ 650), including movie AE, MC, V Open: Daily 6 11 pm